Return to Odaiba

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Today’s random throw of the dice says “Kiyosumi Garden” a few blocks north of the apartment. I had visited Kiyosumi Garden on my first trip to Japan in 2007 and found it to be all around lovely, and full of natural and designed wonders, living in harmony with each other. There’s even a monument to Bashou, the preeminent Japanese poet. Andrew, a friend also staying in Japan, has never been to Kiyosumi Garden, so this is a good opportunity for him.

9:30am JST

Andrew and I decide to first tank up at the Mister Donut, next to the Tokyo Metro Oeda line station. We won’t need the Metro on this trip because Kiyosumi Garden is a moderate walk of several blocks. Here is another thing in Japan that hasn’t changed a bit since I was here five years ago, and the garden is just as beautiful as ever.

We circle the lake as a cold front turns the sunny sky into intermittent showers and storm clouds, but this just provides additional photo opportunities. Andrew consciensciously brought special DSLR rain bags to shroud our cameras during storms, and we need them too! I just wish I had brought an umbrella, but those are easily obtained at every local conbini and kusuriya.

And as suddenly as the showers come, they’re gone…

1:00pm JST

Next on our list of things to do: visit Tsukushima, a reclaimed land island where the Sumidagawa meets Tokyo Harbor. Tsukushima is known for a dish similar to Omeyomiyaki called Monjayaki…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsukishima

We grab an Oeda line train at Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station, very close to the Kiyosumi Garden and take the idea line two stops to Tsukushima. From Tuskushima we walk to the shopping arcade where neighborhood shops serve up piping hot Manjayaki…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monjayaki

1:30pm JST

We’re both hungry from all of this walking, so we stop at a Manjayaki restaurant for lunch, ordering two servings of Manjayaki, one with mostly vegetables and the other with pork, shrimp, squid and octopus. We watch as the waiter prepares the first serving, and then Andrew and I take turns preparing the second. Its pretty straightforward: you first squirt some vegetable oil on a hot plate and then pour the vegetables and meat onto the hot plate to cook. Then you pour a batter/sauce onto the “fixin’s” being careful to mix everything together into an even consistency with a pair of large spatulas. Let the Manjayaki cook until its nice and gooey and caramelized, I prefer to let the bottom cook until its nice a brown and most of the liquid has boiled away.

The Manjayaki is then eaten directly from the grill with small personal spatulas. Its a fun and very social food.

After lunch, we continue towards the park until we arrive back at the Tuskushima subway station, but the weather looks threatening so we continue on to our next adventure: paying a visit to Odaiba!

3:00pm JST

This time we take the Oeda line to Shiadome where we pick up the “Yurikamome” driverless, automated, elevated train which takes us passed many familiar Odaiba landmarks including a spectacular view of the Rainbow Bridge. While in Shiodome we find a fantastic vantage point to photograph the Shinkansen and an amazing clock built by sculptor Shachimaru Kunio who also built the giant Laputa robot on the rooftop of the Ghibli museum. The Shinadome clock was obviously inspired by Myazaki.

There’s much more to Shiodome too so we shall return at a later date.

3:41pm JST

We arrive at the Daiba stop on the Yurikamome line, right next to the Joypolus entertainment complex. Yes it really is called Joypolus. Its a short walk to the beach and the boardwalk, passed modern art and soaring skyscrapers. Along the boardwalk we pass by Joypolus, Aqua City and the River Cruise Water-Bus terminal. Besides the traditional water-buses we got an up close look at the futuristic water-boats designed by manga artist Leiji Matsumoto…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leiji_Matsumoto

4:30pm JST

And The Statue of Liberty. Yes, The Statue of Liberty, or rather a replica of one of the original models in France. At any rate, its pretty cool. There is one subtle but obvious difference between the statue in New York Harbor and the replica in Japan… the full size version in New York faces the sea to welcome immigrants, the replica in Japan faces towards the city.

It begins to rain again and we seek shelter about ten feet from Liberty, under an elevated platform. Fortunate for us and our expensive cameras.

5:00pm JST

The rain is becoming more intense so we seek shelter in Aqua City and the warmth of hot coffee and pastries at Starbucks. This is one of the nicest Starbucks I’ve ever been in too. Its odd too because I’m sitting in a Starbucks, listening to R&B hits from the 70’s and sipping a typically American drink while enjoying a WARM cinnamon bun…. in Japan.

The Japanese do enjoy their creature comforts and I harbor no ill-will towards them for that. The ability to enjoy an afternoon (or a rainy evening) over a hot drink, good food and a good book is a very civilized pastime.

6:17pm JST

It turns out that this Starbucks is also a great vantage point for photographing Liberty, Tokyo Tower and the Rainbow Bridge. The sun has set, giving us some perfect night time views for photography.

6:45pm JST

Time to head back to the Yurikamome line. The wind is becoming ferocious and I wonder if another cold front is coming, along with more rain storms.

7:30pm JST

Before returning to the apartment, I stop off at one of the local kusuriya to pick up toilet paper, paper towels, laundry detergent, body soap, mouth wash, calcium, vitamins and snacks. Vitamins are expensive in Japan. And true to form, it begins to rain heavily on the walk back to the apartment. Well it could be worse, could be raining… oh wait.

I may have to buy an inexpensive conbini umbrella if this persists.

8:30pm JST

Finally, relaxing after a full day of exploration, photography and videography.

Picking up the keys…

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Today is my second birthday! Since I celebrated my first birthday a day early in Japan, now I get to celebrate my birthday in my home country’s time zone!

Birthday celebrations will have to wait, though. First I have to pick up the keys to my Tokyo apartment, where I’ll be staying for the next 30 days. The rental company, Sakura House, is located in Shinjuku so I start my apartment rental adventure with a subway ride from Monzen Nakachou to Shinjuku!

Looking at the Tokyo subway map, it seems the Oeda line is the most direct way to Shinjuku and the Oeda line station is conveniently located just down the street from the hotel where I’m currently staying. After a 20 minute subway ride, I arrive at Shinjuku Station and take the Nishi-Shinjuku exit, which opens up at the main intersection where several pachinko parlors are located. I remember well the way to Sakura House’s offices from here, just an easy 15 minute walk down the street passed many familiar sights including the KFC…

Note of interest: The Odakyu line station is also located in Shinjuku. Odakyu owns and operates the train line, hotels and other facilities in the Hakone region, a resort area that my friend Andrew and I are planning to visit. Picked up several brochures, these could come in handy when making travel plans.

Arriving at the offices of Sakura House, I fill out the necessary paper work, pay for a full month’s rent in advance and pick up the keys. Sakura House has a mailing list, blog site and Facebook page which will keep me in the loop with such activities as DesignFest 2012, held at Tokyo Big Sight in Daiba, this November.

A quick subway ride back to Monzen Nakachou and I’m settling into my Sakura House apartment for the second time. I find living in a long-term stay apartment like this to be more convenient, cost effective and roomier than a hotel room. After unpacking and settling in, I relax and find this particular apartment to be cosy, tidy, clean and with enough room for my computer, photo gear and clothes.

Very pleased.

But move in day isn’t over yet, I still need some essentials like a towel, soap, shampoo, laundry soap, recycling bags, etc. In 2007, I bought a few inexpensive towels at the local Sunkus but this time I found two excellent hotel towels on sale and a pack of recycling bags at the 100 Yen Store above Akafudado. Grocery shopping is a joy at Akafudado where I also found chocolate cream filled pastries with enough calories to fell a bull elephant in mid stride 🙂

I have my second birthday dinner at Matsuya, a chain of gyudon/noodle restaurants, similar to Yoshinora where I had dinner on my first birthday.

No cake on my birthday? Instead, I’m enjoying a cream filled chocolate pastry while watching Japanese baseball in HiDef, courtesy of Tokyo Sky Tree! Tonight’s game between the Yomiuri Giants and the Chunichi Dragons determines the Central League winner and who will play the Pacific League for the Japanese World Series! The Giants win!

This is a fine and auspicious way to begin my stay in Tokyo and celebrate my birthday…

A Little Night Photography…

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10:00pm JST

Andrew comes up with an interesting idea, let’s walk across the Eitaibashi Bridge and take photos of Tokyo Sky Tree at night over the Sumidagawa. Well, not only did we photograph Sky Tree, but we also photographed the Eitaibashi Bridge itself and Tsukushima which is also clearly visible on the horizon. This impromptu photo shoot was also a great opportunity to test video modes and compare camera settings and underscores just how easy it is to walk to Tokyo proper.

11:00pm JST

All that waterfront photography and walking makes me hungry so I have some late night beef bowl and miso at Matsuya!

Tokyo Sky Tree!

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Today is my birthday (yay!) so I’m looking forward to a special present I’m giving myself while in Japan, touring the newly built Tokyo Sky Tree!

11:00am JST

Headed out to 7-Eleven for a breakfast of onigiri and bottled tea which I leisurely consume in the nearby park. Breakfast at 7-Eleven might sound appalling but this is Japan, and onigiri and tea make an excellent breakfast.

12:30pm JST

I pick up a subway map and plot my way to Sky Tree… hey this is easy, I just take the Oeda line to Kisume-Shirakawa, connect to the Honzemon line and ride three stops to Oshiage Station and Sky Tree. My experience of the subway system from five years ago, and better understanding of the language, including kanji, are serving me well.

1:16pm JST

I enter the Tokyo Metro system at the Monzen Nakachou Station next to the Mister Donut. This is my first time on Tokyo Metro in five years!

1:30pm JST

I exit the Oshiage Station, walk out onto the plaza and am amuzed by the feeling of Deja Vu, entirely from watching NHK programs featuring this plaza beneath Sky Tree.

And there it is… after five years of waiting I finally get to see Tokyo Sky Tree in person!

Wow is that an impressive structure! The plaza is swarming with eager cell phones and point & shoot cameras blazing away. Sky Tree planners knew this was going to be a huge draw so they wisely built a huge shopping complex called “Solamachi” at the base of Sky Tree to cater to visitors.

They have a Totoro store!

2:00pm JST

Having a place to while away the hours is also important when waiting for your timed ticket slot. According to the current signage, assigned timed ticket holders are allowed entrance to Sky Tree some FOUR HOURS from now, which puts me in Sky Tree at 6:30 – 7:00, well after sunset.

My laid back birthday got a little too laid back.

Sadly, I decide to bail on testing the weight stresses of Sky Tree but also decide to rack up karma points by shopping for omiyage to give to my friends… shop shop shop shop…

3:54pm JST

It’s getting towards magic time and I feel like a snack, so I stop by the Taiyaki shop for red bean Taiyaki and soy milk cream filled Taiyaki…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taiyaki

The information desk gives me directions (in Japanese) to the Starbucks where I buy a Venti Mint Green Tea. Armed with snacks and hot tea, I plant myself in a comfortable chair on a sunny landing looking out onto the sunset behind Sky Tree … along with a bunch of other old fogies snoozing in their chairs and couches. I guess this is what awaits me in my old age.

4:00pm JST

Munching on Taiyaki and sipping my piping hot green tea while watching the sun sink towards the horizon.

Watching rambunctious children and happy families swarm to the balcony outside to grab pictures of the sunset behind Sky Tree. The premium view, however, would actually be on the other side that captures the light of the setting sun.

4:30pm JST

Sunset and the magic hour arrives. The entire Solamachi complex, even down to the placement of the trees, feels like it was designed to accommodate Feng Shui and composition for a beautiful and dramatic view of Sky Tree.

This is the moment I’ve been waiting for and I’m working the camera with paparazzi like fury.

5:15pm JST

The Sky Tree light show begins, a little at a time, starting with a violet colour that is compatible with the sunset. Oh man, someone put a lot of thought into even the most subtle details when Sky Tree was designed.

5:30pm JST

Time to head back to hotel. My friend Andrew just blew into town so if he isn’t sleeping off his flight into Japan, maybe we’ll have dinner at one of the old haunts in town.

On my way back to the subway, I note that this is a beautiful shopping space, large and with lots of family amenities. Like most of Japan, however, not enough space to sit and relax.

As I enter the B3 Oshiage Station I get the shake down for Y1000 from a bunch of feral children who need money to get home. I’ve already met The Prince of the Streets, now I feel like I’ve met The Prince of Thieves.

5:48pm JST

Studying the Honzamon line map, I’m wondering if the Chuo Rinkan Express stops at all the stations indicated despite the name “Express.”

A Japanese man approaches me and asks if I need help and I reply that I’m fine, I just like understanding the train system thoroughly. It turns out that he is a former train conductor and signal man so we discuss the subway and JR systems in both Tokyo and Kyoto.

He compliments me on my Japanese language skills.

[ First-Time Travelers Tip: It really only takes minimal language skills to get your intent across. Learn the basic vocabulary and grammar, and the Japanese will open up to you and at least see you as less of a burden to deal with! ]

6:30pm JST

Perfect execution navigating the subway back to Monzen Nakachou…

On the prowl in old Edo

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5:30pm JST

Time to prowl the old neighborhood in search of dinner. In the case of Monzen Nakachou, we’re talking Edo period old. The first change I notice is the new lawn ornament looming brightly over the Mifune Bashi Bridge: Tokyo Sky Tree towering in the distance and looking magnificent all lit up at night! I’ll bet they rack up quite the electric bill.

Little has changed in Monzen Nakachou in the past five years, although there are now two Lawson’s on Eitai-dori and one of them has actual groceries. There’s a Yoshinori on the corner across from the Star Dust and I had beef curry and rice with egg there tonight. Their take-out window rather livens the street up a bit at night too.

Mos Burger, Freshness Burger, Mister Donut and McDonalds are still right where I left them.

Bought vitamins at the kusuriya, across the street from Akifudado and stopped off at Family Mart for an incredibly evil chocolate and cream filled eclair. Wrapped up my walkies with a visit to the 7-Eleven.

There’s a cool breeze picking up like a storm on the seaside as I walk back to the hotel with my conbini treasures. This is very pleasant…

6:47pm JST

Just realized that, unless you like Pachinko, there’s really crap loads of nothing to do in Monzen Nakachou at night!

7:00pm JST

Finally, I’m hunkering down with that scary cream filled chocolate thing, a blackcurrant, raspberry and acerola drink, laundry and an NHK television program about Japanese steampunk and costuming! Here’s an artisan who creates beautiful art objects and jewelry with a steampunk flair, out of used tin cans.

1:30am JST

Laundry is finished and now it’s time for bed!

On to Tokyo!

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Normally this blog is about “First TIme” things, but today we’re going to start with “Last Day” things in Kyoto. Has it really been a full week in Japan? It seems like I just arrived!

9:45am JST

Although I am up early to watch the sunrise against a crystal clear sky, I have only now finished packing my clothes, video and photo gear for transport.

“Three pieces of luggage, camera bag, leather jacket”

10:00am JST

Before I check out of the hotel, I’m headed down to “Naka-u” for my last meal in Kyoto… and who cares about a reprieve from the governor when you’re chowing down on the best udon soup ever created!

11:45am JST

Dropped my keys off at the lobby desk, walked out the door, walked straight into a taxi (with automatic doors of course) and I’m entering Shinkansen ticketing within 15 minutes. Total faire for the cab ride was only Y800.

Purchased a “reserved regular” Shinkansen ticket to Tokyo but the train leaves the station in only five minutes! I’m rushing to the upper level Shinkansen platforms where my train awaits … only to be greeted by a closing door.

I watch forlorned as my Y1520 Shinkansen ticket pulls out of the station. Yes, I have just missed my train!

11:15am JST

Missed my train by mere seconds! Hand it to the Japanese, they keep those trains running on time, no matter what.

I ask one of the JR platform attendants what to do and he dismisses this as a non-problem, just queue up to car 3, 4 or 5 of the next train and take an unreserved seat. That seems like a fair compromise. I wait for the next Nozomi Shinkansen and it does have a few empty, unreserved seats (although not many). I now have a seat on a Nozomi bulet train to Tokyo.

11:33am JST

Aside from the linoleum flooring that graces the unreserved seating cars, and the ability to choose a specific seat, I see little or no difference between unreserved and reserved seating. Choice and different flooring is what a Y5500 reserved seat fee buys you.

If you desire a window seat because you like to photograph the landscape whizzing passed, you take your chances with unreserved seating, its first come first serve and this time I lost out on the window seat… no scenery photography.

In my future travels I think I’ll try unreserved seating again, especially at off-peak times.

[ First-Time Travelers Tip: Do you feel lucky punk? Then try unreserved seating for the transportation, not the amenities! ]

Something similar happened to me five years ago when I wanted a Shinkansen ticket from Kansai area to Tokyo and my JR Pass had expired. The only recourse was to purchase a ticket with cash but there were no reserved or green car seats available. Yup, I had to sit in the unreserved car with drunken businessmen and the linoleum floors.

[ First-TIme Travelers Tip: Crisis’ of any size are never welcomed but small crisis’ like this give you experience you can use later! ]

I just noticed the convenient flip down hooks at each seat, for hanging your umbrella or jacket, how clever!

1:00pm JST

Flying past towns and fields and mountains on a warm sunny lovely day! I don’t have much to do except enjoy the trip so I take a cat nap…

1:30pm JST

And a few minutes later we roll into Tokyo Station. Disembarking, I recognize the platform immediately as the platform I photographed five years ago on my last Shinkansen journey to Kyoto.

2:05pm JST

I deliberately make my way, to the Marunouchi South Exit and the new Tokyo Station renovations. Wow, the dome interior looks great! And the exterior rebuild is something else, like stepping back into the 1920’s!

I step outside and almost directly into a taxi with automatic doors.

2:10pm JST

Tokyo Station is actually quite close to my destination, across the Sumidagawa in Monzen Nakacho. Now we shall find out how much convenience costs. I’ve hoofed it through the Tokyo Metro system with luggage before and it is not a pretty sight. Door to door taxi service is far preferable!

2:25pm JST

We cross the Eitaibashi and look look look at Sky Tree over the Sumidagawa!

2:30pm JST

The taxi arrives at the hotel and I pay only Y1430, very reasonable considering the alternatives.

This hotel is really just a temporary place to sleep before I can pick up the keys to the apartment, where I’ll be living for the next month. The apartment is just 100 feet away from the hotel, making the transition a snap.

I’m a few hours early for checkin, so I check my luggage in the lobby and wander around the neighborhood a bit. Yes, as I suspected the Sunkus has been replaced by a Lawson’s.

It;s a strange feeling returning to this neighborhood after five years… and I never in my life imagined that I would be staying at this hotel which I’ve walked passed so many times before.

2:47

I found Sky Tree and man is it impressive! Very picturesque with the Mifune Bashi Bridge in the foreground. The fact that you can see it looming in the sky from this distance is impressive enough.

4:00

I check into my hotel room in Tokyo and it’s so small the door to the room, opens into the hallway… now that’s a closet!

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